2QuickNovas.com - Coil Spring Swaps

Coil Spring Swaps

Loosen front lug nuts
Jack up the front of the car
Put jack stands under the frame
Remove front tires
Disconnect sway bar end links
Disconnect brake lines (Optional. I disconnect them, preferrably from the hard line attached to the frame)
Remove shocks
Run a chain up through the lower control arm and through the spring and bolt it together with minimal slack
Place a floor jack under the control arm (leave about a 1/8" gap between the jack and the control arm)
Remove the cotter pin from the top ball joint castle nut
Loosen the castle nut a couple turns but leave sufficient thread engagement to keep the nut from flying off when you separate the top ball joint
With a heavy hammer, whack the spindle where the upper ball joint goes through it (this is right above the castle nut)
The blows from the hammer will cause the spindle to slightly flex and spring pressure will separate the ball joint. This keeps you from ruining the grease cups on the ball joint, which is likely to happen with a pickle fork

Be careful at this point, as the car as probably risen from the jack stand on the side on which you are working

Lower the jack to remove tension from the spring
You may have to pry the spring out with a stiff rod (be sure the chain is still installed securely)
With stock height springs, some prying will probably be necessary but it shouldn't be too hard to get it out

Putting the spring back in is basically a reverse process, but there are a few things to watch for:

Reinstall the safety chain as soon as you able to do so
If you've cut your front springs, installation will be easy, but if you are putting stock or taller springs in you will probably need to compress them somehow
I made my own spring compressor from 1/2" threaded rod, some nuts and washers, and a harmonic balancer puller (see pictures below, click on any of them for a larger version of the picture)

The threaded rod goes up through the top shock mount hole and the balancer puller goes in between the coils toward the bottom of the spring. I used some bolts in the slots of the puller to keep it centered in the spring
Make sure the top of the spring sits in the upper spring cup correctly
Take a look at the upper spring cup to see how it is configured before putting the spring up in it
Once the spring is seated in the upper and lower spring cups, you can raise the lower control arm with the floor jack
Make sure the ball joint stud enters the hole in the spindle and put the nut on
Tighten the nut and replace the cotter pin
Lower the jack
Remove the chain and spring compressor if you used one
Re-install the shocks, sway bar end links, reconnect the brake lines and bleed the brakes
Once you get the front tires on, you are ready to roll!

You will most likely need to get the front end re-aligned if the ride height changes much with the new springs.

WARNING: Compressed springs store a great amount of energy. Quick release of this energy can cause damage or bodily injury. Always use a safety chain and work safely with safe equipment and tools. Work at your own risk, as the author is not responsible for any injuries or damage incurred from the use of this guide.

If you have any questions or comments please click the "Contact Craig" link and let him know.